It’s that time of year, when the fashion pack are out in force, sniffing out the trends and strutting their stuff candidly across roads #streetstyle.
The last time I wrote about Fashion Week I think I chatted about ‘the point’ of it. This season the over-powering message is power, politics and tribes. Many of the finales have seen all the models taking the catwalk in a group, storming down that runway together and I love it. I think there will always be a point to Fashion Week and the fact each season seems to bring something new and exciting, I for one will always be intrigued.
Rather than a post for each City I just wanted to do a quick round up of the shows I loved this season and what I’m looking forward to wearing for AW2018 (jeeez, haven’t even reached Spring yet!)
- Victoria Beckham – I really enjoyed the classic tailoring and work-wear vibe and the colours for AW are just gorgeous. It’s the uniform she has created that women want to wear – especially the green military belted number. Also her adoring family sitting front row clapping was possibly one of the cutest things I have seen! When she went to go give them all a kiss (oh be-still my beating heart).
- Coach 1941 – Always a favourite of mine and the whole vibe was beautiful, an American dream of wistfulness, romance and Gothic tones. With fringing, shearling and leather coats, beautiful autumnal toned colours of deep greens, oranges and purples, and the launch of their limited Dreamer bag (which I NEED NOW!).
- Calvin Klein – Not so much for the clothes per-say but for making models walk through a catwalk of popcorn, very original.
- Caroline Herrea – In her final collection, Herrea kept it classic and for the finale walk all models wore a crisp white shirt paired with gorgeous jewel toned taffeta skirts. A fitting finale to her 37 years as creative director at the helm of the company, she passes the role on to her successor Wes Gordon.
- Bora Aksu – Ohhh floaty goodness! So pretty, so pink, so feminine and yet mixed in with some sharp tailoring: “inspired by masculine/feminine contrast and the tale of Margaret Ann Bulkley of the Georgian era practising medicine disguised as a man – opulence vs simplicity, pretty layered silk tulle gowns vs traditional masculinity tailoring”
- Temperley – From the clips I’ve seen on Instagram the show looked like a flash back to war times mixed in with a frivolous party somewhere in between. The season’s collection mood board saw military badges, flight jackets and sequins. Sequins are Temperley’s forte and some of the sheer mesh dresses adorned with them just show us why. What a niche combination! I love that.
- Burberry – An emotional, and colourful, farewell to Christopher Bailey. The English Rose of Burberry has been packed away for a few seasons now (since the days when the collection was shown at Kensington Palace Gardens with live musical performances) and we are really seeing the street wise Burberry girl. Christopher Bailey has always been one of my favourite designers and I love that he has been with Burberry for so long, through thick and thin and he will be greatly missed. His last swan song was about being inclusive and he embellished the collection with rainbow motifs in knitwear, leather jackets and a faux fur cape as a tribute to the LGBT+ community and I think that is most fitting.
A side-note that the real highlight of LFW was The Queen sitting front row at Richard Quinn with Anna Wintour. Enough said.
- Dolce & Gabbana – The bags came down on drones. Technology has taken the place of models! I guess bringing clothes down the runway by drone might be a virtual step too far for now.
- Tommy Hilfiger – Rev the engine, the shows about to begin. For Gigi’s final collection with Tommy Hilfiger she brought the power (and even Lewis Hamilton to the frow). In keeping with the theme there was a lot of leather, cropped drivers jackets, chequerboard print and lots of go-faster stripes. On some of the behind the scenes for the show I saw the MUA discussing the eyes and how they are purposely long strokes to represent that ‘go-faster’ stripe. Gigi looked amazing in the leather racing driver trousers and crop-top followed in the finale by a beautiful flowing full skirted maxi dress printed with Hilfiger’s crest – the American flag and the chequered winners flag.
- Philosophy – It’s ultra-feminine and elegant but with an Americana influence to add a slouchy cool girl vibe. Referencing glamour of the late 1970s and early 1980s, with the mix of American places from Park Avenue (think luxe party dressing with princess pinks) to the prairies (yellow rose prints, earthy colours and pretty frills.)
- Tod’s – PUPPIES! Oh and some gorgeous clothes in beautiful colour combinations and materials. See oversized shearling jackets, suede tracksuits, leather utility shirts and parkas all coming in warm shades of vanilla, marigold, tan and my personal favourite the mint green. With the traditional leather bags designed in a large shopper-style or tiny ones wore around the waist on belts, there was something for everyone. And as the first note, Gigi Hadid opened the show carrying a puppy… so the show was a winner from the first step.
- Dior – Bringing back the patchwork of our childhood blankets! Plus some gorgeous sheer dresses with delicate applique work. Very powerful and with the opening message of I AM A WOMAN the show had a real empowering feel to it. Pulling on historical references to the Youth Revolts of 1968, Maria Grazia Chiuri has dedicate the collection to the changes in the everyday women’s wardrobe triggered by 1968.
- YSL – A simple runway, flashing lights and then the Eiffel Tower in front of you glistening in the night as you exit the show. I think that’s a pretty stunning catwalk show. The finale of the show saw the models strut their stuff in beautiful evening wear of short skirts and broad shoulder jackets encrusted with purple, fuchsia and pink floral embellishment. So striking and what I now want to wear to any future party.
- Chloé – I’ve mentioned in a previous post about the Chloé girl and what she looks like now Natacha Ramsay-Levi is at the helm and it’s safe to say she is still ethereal and powerful. With belted blazers, cropped trousers and floaty dresses the latest collection is stunning but given a tougher edge with sculptured cut-outs and thick gold jewellery. Getting real 70s vibes with the silks and gold jewellery and the gorgeous hues of amber, copper, cream and a burst of cobalt blue.
- Chanel – Of course Chanel, it is the one I look forward to each season because I can’t wait to see what Karl Largerfeld has created as his vision for the set! I’m always blown away by the creation of a mood for the shows and this years was no different. Instantly you knew, this is an autumn collection. The Grand Palais was filled with autumnal leaves, huge trees and created a truly mystical and magical feel. The clothes were surprisingly wearable too! Lots of gorgeous two-pieces, fancy dresses and signature Chanel shapes.
- Louis Vuitton – I realise my Paris picks are quite stereotypical ‘Fashunn’ choices but my goodness Paris has outdone itself this season with it’s collections and there are so many I loved. But to end, Louis Vuitton, who paired old with new, modern with classic and held the show inside the Louvre – I mean, what a setting! It combined classic shapes, in tweed and leather in gorgeous colours befitting their surroundings.
And with that Fashion Month is over for another season. I always love the Autumn/Winter collections as I feel the clothes are more wearable and the mood set up for the shows is so atmospheric and powerful. Now whether I will be adding to my wardrobe any of these inspired pieces, we will have to see (obviously not the real deal stuff! Not enough money in the bank for that kind of frivolity).
Want to check out the collections and shows? I found British Vogue great for showing off all the catwalk shows (also where images are sourced from).
If you’ve stuck to the end of this post thank you!